Visiting the Razor Company Fontani in Italy, tuscany

Exploring the Craftsmanship of Fontani Factory in Tuscany, Italy: How a Straight Razor Is Made

Report from Our Field Correspondent at the Fontani Factory in Scarpinio, Italy

What an extraordinary visit! During my seven-day Proraso journey, we had the privilege to venture into the Fontani factory in Scarpinio. This factory is where straight razors with fixed blades are meticulously crafted, showcasing immense artistry and expertise. Although we were already acquainted with the Fontani brand, it was only upon visiting their workshop that we fully comprehended the craftsmanship concealed behind the scenes. It became evident that passionate artisans with extraordinary skill were the driving force behind this brand.

Allow me to take you through the steps of their manufacturing process, starting with the blade’s formation. It’s important to note that this process doesn’t involve the forging of steel, as that is a separate technical aspect. Modern steel is, in fact, superior and more robust than the antique steel commonly found in vintage razors we restore.

A brief digression: Why don’t we exclusively use modern straight razors? Well, our love for vintage extends deeply, and we cherish the stories and history carried by these old razors. In terms of steel, we’ve acquired more knowledge and understanding, allowing us to fine-tune our blades using modern equipment. However, let’s get back on track.

The story begins after they’ve already created a mold for the straight razor.

Step 1 | Arrival of the Straight Razor Mold in the Workshop

The molds arrive at the workshop, where they are transformed into actual straight razors. When we refer to a “mold,” we mean a piece of raw metal shaped like a straight razor, but the blade itself is just a raw rectangle with a thickness of 4 to 5 millimeters. Everything starts from this point.

Step 2 | Crafting the Signature ‘Smile’ in the Blade

Every Fontani straight razor features a slight curvature in the blade, a distinctive characteristic that sets their razors apart. This maker’s fingerprint is created using a machine equipped with 45-grit sandpaper, which is a robust abrasive material. This process requires skill and knowledge to ensure that excessive steel isn’t shaved away.

Step 3 | Stamping the Logo

Once the smile is carved, it’s time to stamp the logo into the metal. This is done with a hammer and a specially crafted chisel with a pre-made stamp. Literally, they imprint the logo onto the metal.

Step 4 | Measuring the Steel for the Right Edge

Now it’s time to refine the blade. Using a clever device, they measure the thickness of the steel. The top of the blade dictates how much vibration the razor can absorb, and the sturdier the blade, the fewer vibrations and micro-incisions on the skin. Ideal for shaving sensitive areas like the chin.

They create some guidelines and determine what type of razor they can craft. Whether it’s a 10/8 or 8/8, etc. They leave the edge a few millimeters thick because the blade will be reheated in the next step. This allows them to make adjustments later to ensure both sides are straight. Steel is a living material, so variations can occur.

Step 5 | Determining the Razor Type

Each piece of metal dictates the type of razor it will become. They decide, through various types of machinery, whether it will be a wedge, full hollow, quarter hollow, etc. All of this is done manually, showcasing masterful craftsmanship. Using the right machinery and a sanding belt with a 500-grit grid, the piece of steel is sculpted into a quarter hollow. Both the top and sides are treated, and they ensure both sides are in sync. They want a razor that’s not skewed, which would pose challenges during sharpening.

Step 6 | Filing for Grip

We’re still in the rough phase. Now they file the grip of the straight razor. We had the opportunity to do this ourselves, and it’s certainly not as easy as it looks. But that’s often the case with many things; it appears simple until you try it. This is true master craftsmanship.

Step 7 | Into the Oven

In this step, the raw blade is once again baked in the oven. Here, craftsmanship and material knowledge come into play once more. They inspect each blade before placing it in a 1500-degree oven. Afterward, the blade is cooled in an oil bath, then returned to an 800-degree oven before being immersed in oil again. Why oil? Because oil cools slower than water. The temperature shock from water would be too extreme for the steel and could potentially damage the internal structure of the blade, affecting its ability to conduct vibrations effectively.

This is why vintage razors have specific names. “Double Temple” refers to double heating, and a “Sub Zero” razor has been cooled to below 0 degrees. The longer they can control the cooling process, the harder the steel becomes, which is what we want. Stronger steel leads to a better shaving experience.

Step 8 | Fine-Tuning with a Higher Grit

Once the steel has fully cooled, the atoms are strengthened again, allowing the next step: refining with a higher grit to shape the quarter hollow. This process is again done entirely by hand but with a higher grit. After the steel has been in the oven, they assess whether the extra millimeter of the edge needs any adjustments.

After extensive measurements, the sharpening process begins anew. The precision here is phenomenal and difficult to put into words. In essence, they further carve out the hollow and start shaping the edge.

Step 9 | Creating a Bevel

They manually create the initial bevel on a diamond stone, forming the first part of the sharpening process – shaping the bevel. When we mentioned the edge earlier, it wasn’t the actual edge but rather achieving an even point.

Step 10 | Crafting a Handle

This was the most surprising part for me: witnessing how they craft the handle or “scale.” They manually craft each handle using horns from different animals. The horn, for example, from a bull, is initially cut into the rough shape of the scale they want to create. It is then placed in a machine that compresses the horn. After multiple compressions, the horn is further sanded down to achieve the desired size and thickness for the razor handle.

Regular checks are made with a dummy razor to ensure the scale is of sufficient quality. Afterwards, they polish it to achieve a beautiful shine. There’s no wood involved, no wax for polishing, or similar materials. It’s simply a piece of horn, sanded and polished. The craftsmanship is truly remarkable! I’ll be posting videos on my Instagram, and the one about the handle is definitely worth watching. It’s too fantastic to miss!

Step 11 | Assembly

In the final step, the straight razor is connected to the scale by inserting a beautiful pin. And there you have it, a straight razor. I’ve summarized the 11 steps, but remember, these are executed by craftsmen who have been perfecting this art for over four generations. This is true mastery. If you ever find yourself near Fontani, a visit to their exquisite store featuring handmade razors is certainly worth a stop!